I love a good dam

Faithful Miguel was there for us at 730. We checked out, stored the bags and then it was off to view a short film, which nearly induced sleep at such as early hour. I think it was on the dam. Anyway, we hopped in a bus, put on our hard hats and visited the joint Brazil/Paraguay dam/hydro facility, not really sure how to describe it all but i will try. I saw a dam and it was good. Really good actually. We went underground to check out the turbos, took lots of photos and left.  

We had our chauffer drop us off at the main shoopping centre on the way home. I guess its like a wanna be Westfield. A lot of shops but not many people. Bought a shirt, ate lunch at Bobs Burgers then went on a long walk ( aka getting lost).

Finally back at the hotel we used the facilities, tried unsuccessfully again to change our Quantas seats and then went on a more organised walk.

Miguel picked us up, we once more went through the dodgy security at Iguazu and headed to Sao Paulo which is in the opposite direction to where we go on the next flight.  

As i waited for our growing luggage collection to arrive, annette went to figure out the taxi situation, not knowing that once you walk out the doors, you cant come back in. Sort of a reverse Hotel California situation.

Luckily in trying to convey the situation to me in sign language, i didnt leave. I got the bags, she found the taxis( all one million of them), and off we went for our expensive 5 hour sleep.

I never blog the last day

According to the ipod which is still set to Chile time it about to turn midnight on the day we left or the day before but not the day after, I think. The alarm went off at 340am which means i have been awake for 20 hours, less the time I slept during Hamish and Andy, which means I have been awake about 20 hours. 

I have just completed my 3rd meal on a plane plus the "4 piece sampler" at Ruby Tuesdays at Santiago airport. 4 piece actually meant 20 pieces. By now its too late. The fat has settled so its off to the gym either today or tomorrow depending on when the now is.

Last hotel was best of holiday and we only had 6 hours there after surviving Sao Paulo airport. Hot shower for maybe the third time of the trip. Finally a toilet without a bin for the paper. Even though i didnt need to go I wanted to put paper in the toilet just for the fun of it. I hope Ii dont slip into my holiday routine at home or things might get messy.

We have around 5 hours to Sydney so I will just relax and maybe visit the snack wall at the back of the QF plane. That's right, a snack wall.

The omen

The day after watching Argentina win that awful semi final, we were in Argentina on the other side of the falls. Miguel got us through the passport checks quickly, got us to the national park, walked us to everything, took my money to buy the tickets, took photos of us. I wondered how much more we owed him.

This side of the falls is so much better

Wet wet wet (not the band)

Miguel picked us up just after 9. He took us to a big tourist shop so that i could change some money. Then to Iguazu Falls. He got us tickets quickly and then drove us to the falls. It was raining, foggy and miserable but what we could see was great. Lots of waterfalls . We were getting rained on and hit sideways by spray. 

We walked for over 90 minutes and met Miguel in the car park. He then drove us to the bird park. All sorts of birds, as you would expect.

Did I forget about breakfast? Once again those four favourite words - All you can eat buffet- everything from cereal to sausage rolls to birthday cake. I tried it all.

So we had been wondering about the $200 US offer. Was it for the whole time or a day? So Annette asked him if he wanted the money in us or local dollars . I think we spooked him as he wanted the money as soon as we got off the bus at the hotel. He then confirmed tomorrows pick up time. Should we have paid the ferryman before he got us to the other side?

Since breakfast the only thing we had eaten was the sandwiches we had stolen from the breakfast buffet(told you they had lots). So out to the street we went. We didnt want the all you can eat Brazilian bbq again so ended up at the all you can eat pizza restaurant. You sit, they bring pizza. Couldnt be easier. In a short time I had eaten every variety of pizza (including olive. I hate olives) in the frenzy i mistook olives for chilies. The had other healthy options like chicken and hot chips. I tried them all. Finished the night with chocolate, banana and fruit salad pizza. I fear that the calories lost on the inka trail may have found me after a long search.

Back at the hotel, Annette stumbled upon a movie she hadnt seen while i did the responsible thing and packed

Planes Trains and Automobiles

 Really a boat, bus, plane, and bus from the jungle to Cusco to Lima.

Threatened with the chance of no food for the rest of the day we were taken to a shop in the small town of something or other after being reunited with our ever growing luggage. A couple of empinadas, a coke and inka cola later we were ready to beat starvation.

The tiny airport did have food but we ate ours around midday as the long humid wait began. There seemed to be air conditioning, but maybe 35 degrees and 100 percent humidity didnt count for being hot.

As with every flight so far we were running late. The bin where they had confiscated illegal hand luggage was an eye opener. Lucky for me that my machete was in my main luggage.

The plane temperature was sensationally cool, but as usual people then thought it was too cold. Pretty uneventful apart from some air pockets to Cusco. We did score a drink, some oreos and some corn on the way to Lima. Of course without glasses I thought the corn was nuts so saved it to last.

Back to the Colonial Hotel we picked up our bag that we left behind at the beginning of the tour and found our room on the second and a half floor.

One hour to freshen up and then into taxis to the historic centre of Lima. Here we pigged out on huge porttions of food before Rudy took us on one last adventure. It was a Sunday night so naturally everyone was out. Fireworks, buskers and street food. Here he fed us dessert. 3 which were really nice and to top it off we went savoury. Cow hearts skewers(tasted like cow) and intestines(tasted like rubbery yuk). Not many tried intestines and it was pleasing to see Rudy spit his out into a bin.

The tour was now officially over and another taxi back to our hotel for goodbyes.

It turned out to be a great tour and we had one more day on our own.

Up the river without a paddle

Late start today which really suits the hungover people from the group. Up for breakfast, somehow stuffed everything into our shrinking bags and then onto the bus for a short drive from the insanely narrow streets of Cusco to the airport.

Boarding time was 1110 and takeoff at 1145. I think we took off at 1222. The tv showing France and Germany, brilliantly positioned directly after baggage checks, was getting a workout. Finally we hit the air on the way to the jungle. On landing we transferred to a bus, repacked what we needed into duffle bags, got back on the bus and headed to the river.

Onto a long motor boat with a seat on each side we got. Lunch was served immediately. A metal pot containing rice, chips, veggies and chicken nuggets. Yum. It was around 240 and we had a long trip upstream. On the way our guides were spotting all sorts of things. White caimans (like an alligator), howling monkeys, turtles, macaws and vultures.  

We arrived at our destination which is like a tropical village. Big cabins with big windows covered with mesh. There are no lights or power but candles do the job.

First activity was a presentation on the area followed by a night walk looking for spiders. We found some and a small snake. Back to the main cabin for a buffet of pork in spices that made it not taste like pork, pasta, salad, rice followed by cake. All of the weight lost on the trail is finding its way back.

We got back to our cabin, had the best and hottest shower so far, and tucked ourselves into our mozzie nets for a really good sleep. Something about the noise of the jungle helps to induce a good sleep.

Taxi

3 official things to do

1 walk to the Bridge of Sighs. 6 km away and we couldnt find it. It was hidden beneath all the construction as it was being refurbished.

2 find the Hard Rock Cafe. It was actually there. Lunch and a hat later it was time to leave

However I stumbled upon some sports stores with cheap shirts. Only got 5. In marathon it cost 257 soles. She put in 275 and then was typing in more numbers, hopefully reversing her mistake. I guess I will find out when I check my balance.

3 visit the Larco Museum. Of course getting there was part of the entertainment. Outside the Jockey Plaza (where we had lunch) there were taxis everywhere but nobody would take us across town. Luckily for us? lasts nights loser of the demolition derby was willing to pick us up. Half his dashboard was missing so we could see the engine from the back seat.

So he drove in circles, looked at our map, asked people on the street. Still no museum. Finally we got out, gave him half the fare and found another taxi. He got us there. The museum was as museums are. 

Getting back to the hotel after was a piece of cake. A good taxi and driver.

For dinner, the last remaining 7 of our group went to..... A restaurant attached to some recently found ancient ruins. We were all a bit under dressed but it was good and plentiful but Im still a little confused by my choice of steak, banana and black beans.

Where did the day go?

8am taxi for a 1210pm flight to brazil. Still managed a shower and breakfast. Rudy had arranged a proper taxi for us so it was less stressful than yesterdays ordeal but the traffic was no better.

What to do at the airport? Trying to find the ebook reader from day 1 turned into a fail. Retail therapy is always good, especially on a card as it doesnt count. Of course like yesterday the card was used too many times for my liking. I dont think they know how to operate the machines. 11.20 soles to spend. Done with a pepsi and milo(milo is not hot chocolate, its milo).

So through security we finally went. I went off and got the hands in the air treatment and passed. Annettes newest ceramic purchase did however require an inspection from management. Not sure if they thought there were drugs inside or if we were taking antiques out of Peru. Finally they realised we had just purchased it at the airport.

All that was left was a flight, a sleep and arrival in brazil 

We got through step 1 of customs quickly and then waited for our third bag. It didnt arrive. We asked security and finally found it hidden under another bag that somebody had taken off the conveyor. 

Then through the bag xray. 2 bags through and with the third in the machine, the operator stopped the machine and just walked away. The group before only put through half their bags so im not sure they really cared.

Our last guide organised a taxi for us. He was waiting and on the way to the hotel offered his services for $200us. We accepted. Now we hope that is all we pay.

Into our hotel, then to dinner at the Brazilian bbq all you can eat. We ate all we could eat and then squeezed in some more.

Miguel is picking us up tomorrow at 9am. Fingers crossed.

Siestaday

The 529am ipod alarm was really confusing. I thought i had accidently left on the alarm from another day. 6am breakfast has been happening often on this holiday and after scoffing down another huge meal we were back in the boat heading upstream to our early morning gumboot walk. On the way through the jungle we were learning about stuff and things. Probably a 90 minute walk with long sleeves and it wasn't the heat but the humidity that was annoying. Finally we reached the destination of a lake. Split up into 2 canoes we slowly went around the lake. I dont know how but one of the guides found a black caiman in shallow water. A few minutes later while we were throwing crackers in the water he sticks his hand in the water and comes up with a piranha.

We walked back to our boat and got back to the lodge by big lunch time. We then had 2 options. Sleep or go visit a farm. We slept and then walked around 10 minutes to a small pool in a fast running creek to get in to say that we had. It had cooled down a bit and then started to rain. We stayed for 20 minutes before returning for a shower. Annette hit the hammock and me bed in an attempt to recover lost sleep. 

We were awake for our lecture on crocs and alligators, ate another huge meal and then it eas off for a might time bost ride and spotlighting.

Now i guess the river was maybe 100 metres wide but the guide was spotting things so easily. He was finding plenty of kayman and even a .......big rodent

A free day

A better nights sleep only interupted by my body clock, my ipod alarm set 4 days ago and Annettes phone. Showered we headed to breakfast of toast, juice, scrambled eggs and a malaria tablet. I went for a walk, changed some money, got some lip stuff to try and fix my blistered lips and took some photos. Annette had made a 930 appointment for a massage where they rub and touch.

Back in working order after her massage, Annette was ready to shop. We went in search of a jewellery shop, which was near Jacks Cafe. We found the shop without realising it. We asked the owner where Jacks was and she said it wasnt far up the street. Of course Annette stumbled upon a handbag store. Much time and much money spent later, we asked this shop owner where Jacks was. He pointed back to where we came from. Jacks cafe was directly opposite the jewellery store we had been in.

We foolishly ate KFC for lunch and headed out with most of our group to the fresh food markets. Here he purchased us all different fruits to sample. It was quite an eye opener and OH and S means nothing here.

We then went to a museum but it was out of our price range. We headed down to Cusco's Paddys Markets, spent some money foolishly and headed back to the hotel. 

Our final meal as a group was at Fallen Angel. 

After dinner we headed back to attempt to pack. Funny how we can make a hotel room look like our house in two days. We finally got it into a manageable state after midnight.

We are waking up at what time?

O330am. Out of our tent by 355 and the porters had our tent down in seconds, packed up our bags and ran to catch the train. really. We had some dry bread and jam and i had a coffee. This was a mistake. At 430 illuminated by head lamps we headed down the path and stopped. We had joined the line to go through our final checkpoint which was due to open at 530. So with a poncho as our blanket, we sat and waited. It was about 520 when we got underway. Still in darkness we headed out at record speed, single file, on the mountain side to make sure we didnt fall off. After about an hour we didnt need our lamps any more. Annette was keeping up but it was getting more difficult. I think that not being able to see the danger around helps to go faster. As for me, I was busting to go since 521.

In comparison to the other days it was easier apart  from the 90 degree vertical steps where walking poles were not used. Not a lot of fun as our day packs were working against us in cooperation with gravity.

At around 645 we arrived at the sun gate overlooking...........cloud. No machu Pichu in sight. We could have waited for hours but pressed on to the next viewing point. On our descent, all those people who had arrived by bus at the site were on their way up the mountain to the gate. Their huffing and puffing was pleasing. Still after 4 days walking we still had our climbers attitude and made them walk on the dangerous side of the path. Our next stop was the best spot for a photo opportunity of .......more clouds so continued to the entrance where we would wait, and for a well spent 1 soles , use the facilities. It had taken a bit under 2 hours to cover the 3 km. 

We hung around until a bit after 8, and then Luis our guide gave us a 2 hour tour. It was really packed with tourists. Around 10 we were on our own. Some went to the sun gate as the cloud had gone, some for the best photo spot, and we walked around the area of the site we hadnt seen. Its much bigger than imagined and for the next 70 minutes we were Japanes tourists with cameras going off.

We left, got on a bus down the mountain and survived the trip. Arrived at the town of ....... Where we were meeting for lunch. A pizza and chocolate shake never tasted so good. Did get to use the facilities and have never been so happy to sit on a proper toilet.

From here we collected our bags and walked to the train station. A very efficient system. I love the fact that the boarding time is in big bold numbers while departure time is in smaller print. No missed trains in Peru.

The journey was around 90 minutes through mountains following the river. The train had a glass ceiling for better viewing and free snacks were included.

We were then transferred to a bus and another 2 hours of hair raising driving back to Cusco.

We didnt bother showering as we figured everyone else would be (and using all the limited hot water) and headed out to eat. The only stipulation from Annette was that ice cream must be involved.

Finally shaved and showered we hit a real bed with pillows for the first time in forever.

Piece of Pisco Sour

And so the big day has finally arrived. First important thing to do was wake up before the rest of the hotel to steal the hot water that I have missed out on the last two days. The fact that my new wakeup time is 435 made this quite easy. I am clean again. 

Next important job was buying something frivolous from the just opening town square in order to break a couple of 100 notes. Thankyou peanut butter cups. The big ones not the minis.

Then breakfast. Our last proper food for 4 days? Eggs and ham on freshly made rolls hit the spot a couple of times. After yesterdays rabbit food experiment i have some catching up to do.

Into the bus and on the bumpy roads and over railway tracks (tax deduction). The official group photo out of the way, our passports checked and it was on to the, what turned out to be about 11.5 km though the mountains. Mostly gentle slopes but some big ups and not so big downs. Plenty of time for photos and water breaks. Not sure if the rest of the group are taking pictures as we walk. We have 2 guides, Luis and Sandro. Luis at the back was Annette's personal escort for the day. We stopped and saw an old Inca village in one of the valleys. Pretty amazing stuff. 

Finally about half way it was lunch time. I was looking forward to my sandwich.

Now to the porters. They are carrying 25kg. Tents, food, our clothes, gas, water, chairs. Everything. They run in order to get to the destinations in time. Not jogging all the time but a sprint. They do slow down uphill

So back to lunch. Tent, table, chairs and no sandwich. A bowl of soup, followed by crumbed trout. Wow.

We were ahead of time so we got a bit of rest time. Once more we walked up and down stopping briefly to attempt to photograph humming birds. In total actually walked for 4 hours ( thanks Garmin). Just prior to arriving at our campsite we passed a tv and saw the teams walking off for half time. Up the hill our tents were ready for us. Bit of relaxation before the walkers and porters had a get together. There are more of them than us. Then a quick game of cards before another great meal.

Forgot to mention the toilet. Nothing like a good squat after a long day. Now its time to walk up the hill to go to the loo. 

Stupid animals

Having never tented before i was having some sleeping problems. Didnt help that the roosters of the neighbourhood went off from 3am and that all the dogs in the world were having a chat. 

Our tent was on a gentle downward slope so the night was spent trying to get back to the top.

A 530 wake up call with a cup of coca tea and a tub of warm water delivered to our tent. Breakfast at 6 was a personalised pancake. Annette was parrot and i was tiger. Porridge as well before a big walk. 

By 645 we took our first steps. At the first toilet stop everybody was stripping off due to heat and exercise. I quickly visited the toilets and deterve a prize for not going in my own pants.

Up and down we walked until the moment where Annette was about to throw up. At a pit stop, I took some stuff out of her bag to carry and Sandro our guide carried her pack for the murderous part of the climb.

Up we climbed, step by step, hoping that Dead Womans Pass would not claim Annette. We would walk 100m and rest. The people on the top looked so close but it was going to take a lot of energy to reach 4200 metres.

The person who came up with "its down hill all the way" have never climbed down this mountain. I would go ahead and wait for Annette to appear. Sometimes i couldnt see her but it sounded like i was being followed by a dirty phone call. The huffing and puffing was loud but she never quit.

We could see an injured porter below being assisted by a fellow porter. He had hurt his ankle. Some way down, he was leaning on the mountain exhausted. I gave him some water and a panadol.

I continued and made camp by 245. They had sent a porter up to carry Annettes pack but she kept it for the whole descent.

The arvo was spent resting. Afternoon tea was 5 and dinner at 7. Spaghetti and rice with veggies and soup. Amazing. 

For lunch we even got lemon meringue pie.

The sky was clear and the stars bright and milky way clear. When I thought it was cold, full winter sleeping gear it was. Was busting to go by 3 am but made it to morning. Couldnt go to those toilets at that time. At any time is a stretch.

Just another walk in the park (day 1 written after we finished)

Up early ,i ventured into the village square to buy some cheap things in order to break some 100 soles notes. Came back with peanut butter cups , some drink holders and of course , peanut butter cups.

I am feeling well so demolished some ham and scrambled egg rolls. Then into our ride to our starting point. Passports checked we had our starting photos, croosed a bridge and were on our way. With the help of Garmin i can confirm a 11.10km walk through some stunning scenery. We got started at 937. Our support crew had left earlier and when we arrived at lunch they had set up a big tent with dining table, cloth and knives and forks. Then we got fed. 2 courses ofsoup with a main of trout and vegies. I didnt want fish so ended up with avocado instead. Doh. This surely cannot be camping. Well fed we walked on until our nights accom of 2 man tent overlooking an amazing valley awaited. Pity the one toilet/ hole in the ground wasnt up to this standard. I had used a hole in the ground earlier and sqatting wearing undies, tights and pants while not transferring your stomachs contents into your pants is quite a feat.

Another amazing meal after we had met with our porters and chefs, a game of cards with the group and it was off for our first tent sleep.

Sick Bay

II woke up at 425am. Stupid body clock. I felt fine but couldnt get back to sleep. Then I got the urge to go. I guess I can descibe it best by comparing it with Willy Wonkas chocolate river. Back to bed and an hour later an encore. This walk is going to be messy. We have the pleasure of carrying out our used toilet paper.

We tried to take a shower. No hot water and i dont feel well enough to freeze myself to death so went to breakfast after finally taking one of the thousands of tablets we had. Two pieces of toast and juice was all i could manage. I must be sick.

Leaving our big luggage behind we headed out through the mountains. 

At this stage it is necessary to advise that things are a little bit hazy from here as its about 4 days later as i am trying to remember. 

There was a visit to a small village where we learnt about weaving. Even had a chance to spend some money. Annette got one lucky person a Christmas present.

From there it was up to a really impressive Inca structure  (insert name here). Then it was off to lunch which just did not excite me. While the rest of the group had the highlight meal so far, i lay on the grass, ate a salad and listened to the local commentary of Brazil Vs Uruguay. Felt better and watched and marveled as highly skilled professionals couldnt hit such a huge target.

I have the feeling that Luis our guide is worried about me on the trail.

From lunch we bused to Ollantaytambo and possibly the coldest hotel room of all time. Out for dinner I finally got the courage to eat and pasta before the walk seemed the go.

Oops forgot about the Sacred Valley. You have to hand it to the Incas, they certainly know how to build on mountains.

Back at the hotel we once again had scales to weigh our walking luggage. After much juggling the bags were packed and we were ready to go.